SDA Book Club: Fashion & Motherhood reviewed by Vivien Zepf
February 7, 2025
Fashion & Motherhood: Image, Material, Identity edited by Laura Snelgrove
In 1976, Adrienne Rich published Of Woman Born: Motherhood as Experience and Institution, ushering in motherhood studies as a field of academic inquiry. At the time, it was provocative to consider something perceived as “natural” as worthy of critical analysis, but the past decades have shown that the universal, yet profoundly personal, process of mothering—in this context, defined as caring for another individual, whether that person is a helpless babe or an elderly parent—is a productive topic for scholarly investigation.
The thirteen essays gathered by editor Laura Snelgrove(1) in Fashion & Motherhood: Image, Material, Identity focus on how motherhood and mothering have been and can be expressed through clothing, and how fashion can be a potent visual medium to describe mothering. The writings, selected to help readers appreciate more than a western-centric fashion perspective, are grouped according to Rich’s original structure of Image—how images perpetuate and/reinforce our perception and engagement with the institution of motherhood; Material—how clothing has influenced the experience of motherhood and might express cultural expectations and limitations; and, finally, Identity—how a woman, now a mother, might use clothing to express this change in her life circumstances.
This compilation of scholarly works presumes that the reader is intelligent and prepared to think deeply about history and global cultures, and to challenge assumptions. The first essay of the book, for example, discusses how Carrie Lam, the Chief Executive of Hong Kong, tried to utilize cheongsam, a traditional Chinese gown, as a symbol of her self-identified mother-like leadership in the face of social upheaval. Essays on the corset were to be expected, but I had not considered it from the perspective of the woman struggling to find the answer to the Victorian-era question: Should I wear / is it safe to wear a corset during pregnancy? And what of the new mother who, as a member of high society, was incapable of excusing herself to nurse a newborn because her undergarment simply didn’t facilitate it and thus, hired a wet nurse? In either circumstance, was a woman a “good mother” or a “bad” one based on her corset choice? Today, is a new mom wearing sweatpants applauded for dressing for comfort or viewed as being overwhelmed, overtired, and unfashionable?
Societal pressures and ideas/ideals of mothering emotional and practical “fitness” are examined throughout the text. In many cases, a patriarchal perspective has defined societal conventions. As an extreme example, the Telugu film industry in India presents a movie genre in which a mother wears fashionable Western clothing is representative of being an unfit mother. In the course of the film(s), a “bad” woman’s character evolves to “good” through physical violence and/or verbal abuse, perpetrated on her by a spouse or potential beau for her daughter. Viewers know the woman’s moral psyche has been converted when the character emerges wearing a sari. The Telugu film industry’s overt intent with these films is to reinforce notions of Indian femininity and motherhood. While I recognize and acknowledge that it is important to have an awareness of different cultures and norms, I found it difficult to read this essay. Readers can skip this chapter if it might be triggering. They would still find tremendous value in the remaining essays.
Dressing is, as described by scholar Joanne Entwistle, a “situated bodily practice” that is experienced around the world. Fashion & Motherhood is a formidable, relevant, and thought-provoking compilation of essays that query dressing, fashion choices and culture in relationship to motherhood, society and personal agency. The topic is so expansive that this compendium couldn’t possibly be exhaustive, but Fashion & Motherhood is a meaningful jumping off point for anyone contemplating how we view mothering in public and private spaces.
(1) Laura Snelgrove is co-founder and editor-in-chief of The Fashion Studies Journal.
–Viven Zepf
- Publisher: Bloomsbury (buy it here)
- Date: February 2024
- ISBN: 978-1350276697
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Do you have a recommendation for a recent fiber-related book you think should be included in SDA’s Book Club? Email SDA’s Managing Editor, Lauren Sinner, to let her know!
