By the time this issue comes out, the Spring Equinox will have tipped
the balance of light and darkness in favor of days-at least, for
those of us in the north temperate zones. On the January day of this
writing, we are just emerging from the ultimate darkness of the
Winter Solstice. Always surprising at this time of year is how
quickly we see the addition of minutes of light to each day. Small
increments of light alter darkness in a way that doesn't happen in
reverse. A well-known experiment proves that a white spot on a black
ground appears to expand, while the same sized spot of black on white
appears to contract.
An interest in the relationship of dark and light has
fascinated artists as well as scientists over the centuries.
"Chiaroscuro" is a wel lremembered concept from Art History 101.
Recently roaming through the El Greco exhibition at the Metropolitan
Museum, I noted that for a painter, coaxing light from darkness is
often additive, as in brushing strokes of white over
colors. A textile artist can go the other way, exploring light and
darkness through the process of discharge that removes color from
cloth.
"Magical" is the word that keeps coming up in reference to
discharge. Indeed, there is something thrilling about the emergence
of pattern on black material that has been subjected to a discharging
substance. Admittedly, I pondered the wisdom of producing a magazine
version of a black and white film. How would readers accustomed to
delectable color respond to pages of fiber noir?
Trust art to solve that dilemma. Where there is a void, an
artist will fill it. It turns out that a black and white field
creates the possibility of new ways of looking at and building up
color. And, since discharge involves the removal of color dyed into
the structure, not just riding on the surface, of fibrous material,
it allows a quality of color that cannot be replicated in a medium
other than cloth.
As always in a process-specific issue, we've tried to span a
range of applications of discharge, from garments to artworks and
accessories for the home. We reached for its origins, and found that
Jay Rich was eager to speculate on serendipitous beginnings. It also
seemed a good time for a tutorial, and Karren Brito was ready to
share some of the secrets she folds into scarves that are a world in
themselves.
We discovered that discharge is not only an effect, but also
has a dimension of affect. Thus, in quilts constructed of discharged
fabrics, Clare Plug communicates the environmental mood of her New
Zealand homeland.
Some artists, like sculptors who chip
at stone to reveal forms within, find shapes
hidden in darkness. In Carmen Grier's work, for example, lightening
the ground allows the shapes of natural forms like flowers and birds
to come forth.
With the development of new ways of working comes a concern
for passing on knowledge won through time and experience. Bob Adams
is a teacher who lets his enthusiasm for working with fabrics spill
over into his classroom. Besides interviewing him about his artwork,
we couldn't resist reporting on a fiber-centered project that
connected different disciplines in the middle school where he
teaches. Leading a new generation toward understanding that textiles
are critical to culture is one more way of expanding the light.